POINTS OF INTEREST
If you're on your way south to Agra or Jaipur, drive a few miles beyond the Qutub Minar on Mehrauli Road and check out this massive Hindu temple complex. It's a mishmash of styles, but the unifying factor—from the huge dome over the Shiva lingam to the 92-foot statue of the monkey god Hanuman—is its flashy and elaborate architecture, done in so-called Punjabi Baroque. It's quite a sight to take in: these huge temples looming on either side of the road. Enter through the sanctum with the devotees, stop at the idols to pay respects, and take some prasad on the way out. Many gods and goddesses are represented, but the inner sanctum is dedicated to Adhya Ma Katyan, a mother goddess. Hymns are sung all night during full moons. Make sure you're dressed respectfully, and be ready to take off your shoes.